Napoleon called Venice "the best drawing room in Europe," and for nearly 40 years the man in the white jacket carrying in the drinks has been... Harry. His is probably the most famous bar in the world. To international celebrities Harry is the ultimate professional host, attentive, observant, shrewd. His tiny bar still looks like a railway waiting room, for he believes people are the best decor. Most of the world's famous have jazzed-up his sophisticated scene. In Venice, place of fantasy with its endless succession of echoes and reflections, Alan Whicker's sixth European considers the view from the other side of the cocktail shaker.