This year, the Finnish city of Oulu is European Capital of Culture. The Nordic country is consistently ranked as the happiest place on earth, despite shivering in sub-zero temperatures for many months of the year. So could its culture be the reason why? Rob Bells heads to Oulu to see how warmly people there embrace the snow and ice, travels deep into Lapland to see how children visiting Santa Claus have transformed the region and sees for himself the deep bond between the Lapps and their reindeer.