It’s never too early to start planning for the holidays, and The Frugal Gourmet: Colonial Christmas is a fine place to start. Don’t expect too much in the way of helpful hints, however, as host Jeff Smith’s period creations (orange peel candies, pumpkin pudding) may be ”frugal” in budgetary terms but not in their time demands. Also, he glides over key cooking steps in the interest of program expediency. Do expect, though, to be warmed to the glow of holiday conviviality, thanks to Smith’s chatty style, the participation of kids as kitchen helpers (and guileless food critics), and the cozy Colonial Williamsburg kitchen setting.