The great thing about making a ragu from dark-meat chicken instead of red meat is that it takes a third of the time to cook, but it starts the same way—by browning the protein slowly and deliberately, and using that time to prep the vegetables that sweeten and deepen the sauce. I’ve altered the original recipe from Where Cooking Begins, which called for pressure-cooking the polenta, to the equipment-free oven polenta method from That Sounds So Good.