. Schofield discovers the world's only Circumcision Palace; explores the famed Blue Mosque; goes to a centre for battered women; and endures an agonising massage in a Turkish bath. He meets Oscar-winning screenwriter Feride Cicekoglu ; a hugely popular singer and TV star with an eye on the presidency, Baris Manco; and Kurdish artist Tekin Firat , whose paintings fearlessly portray his people's plight. Schofield learns the art of haggling in the Grand Bazaar, and how to make a killing on the unofficial stock market.