The Japanese are quiet. The French are a bit messy. The Germans are clean and friendly. And the English? "Arrogant, pushy and wanting all the attention," says Sandy O'Cunneff , who runs the ladies' loo at the Tower of London. Twelve thousand tourists "do" the Tower every day, guided by the Beefeaters - ex-soldiers who tell spine-chilling tales of blood and guts through the ages. Somewhere in all the chaos, a child is lost. And something that shouldn't be there is found in the Jewel House.