On a railway journey from the capital, Palermo, through the ancient town of Agrigento and the port of Siracusa, to Europe’s largest volcano, Mount Etna, Michael explores Sicilian life under the dictatorship. In Palermo, Michael takes in the art and architecture of the Futurists and feasts on spaghetti and sardines in the city’s Ballaro market. In the Capo district, he learns how the island’s distinctive puppets are made and is enchanted to meet one carrying a Bradshaw. Among the spectacular ancient Greek and Roman temples of Agrigento, Michael hears of the passionate ten-year search by a British archaeologist at the time of his guide for a long-lost ancient Greek theatre. The drama of the interwar period comes to life in front of Michael’s eyes as he joins six characters in search of an author at the Teatro Pirandello.