With his 1913 Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide in hand, Michael Portillo continues his journey through Latvia, Estonia and Finland. On this leg, he finds peace paddling a canoe on the lakes of Finland, grills sausages in Helsinki, and samples cloudberry liqueur in a hot tub by the light of Finland's midnight sun. From Tallinn, Michael crosses the Baltic Sea by ferry to Helsinki, where he discovers the music of the great Finnish composer Jean Sibelius and learns how his masterpiece Finlandia spurred Finns towards independence. North of Helsinki, in Tampere, Michael takes to the water again to explore one of Finland's 180,000 lakes.