Steered by his 1913 Bradshaw’s guidebook on a 2,500-mile rail tour of south east Asia, Michael Portillo is in Indonesia, today one of the biggest coffee producers in the world. In the mountainous interior of Java, Michael discovers how coffee was first brought to the island for cultivation and learns about production today. In the city of Semarang, headquarters of the Dutch East Indies Railway Company, Michael visits the Great Mosque, whose sheer scale is a reminder that there are more Muslims in Indonesia than in any other country. Journey’s end is at the port of Surabaya, second largest city in Java, a port bursting with local traditions, produce and culture. Michael learns the story behind its proud moniker, “City of Heroes”.