In the second of an Everyman series of four modern pilgrimages, Nicholas Shakespeare goes to the Andes in Peru, where the beliefs of imported Christianity blend with the rituals of Inca religion. Each year, to commemorate a miracle in which Christ appeared to a boy herding alpacas, thousands of people dance and sing their way to Q'olloritti, a mountain 16,000 feet above sea level that stands in the shadow of a glacier. Numb from the music, local beer and the fatigue of three days and nights without rest, Shakespeare watches the secret ceremonies and ritual battles.