While most professional chefs in Italy are men, the one area that remains the domain of women is pasta fatta a mano, pasta made by hand. In most Italian restaurant kitchens, it is the women who produce the thinnest, sometimes almost translucent, sheets of pasta with only several forceful passes of the rolling pin – it takes me quite a bit longer. The matterello, or rolling pin, is thin and about two feet long, and the pasta dough yields in elastic submission to its sturdy shaping. My friend Maria, who makes all the pasta for Tre Vaselle in Torgiano, loves my version of a hand-rolled and stuffed pasta, which is first poached and then baked. I serve this spectacular dish as a first course or as a main course. You can make the filling and sauce a day ahead and refrigerate them until ready to use.