When I was in Perugia, the capital city of the landlocked region of Umbria, I took a baking class from Signorina Carla Sandri, owner of Sandri’s Pasticceria. First on the day’s schedule was the making of the “eels of Trasimeno”, Trasimeno being the largest lake in central Italy, and a favorite vacation spot for Perugians. I didn’t dare ask how eels could fit into the category of pastry. I soon found out that these eels were made from almonds, candied fruit, and egg whites, shaped to look like the real thing. This is a very old recipe traditionally served at Christmas.