The French consume more butter per head of population than any country in Europe, but traditional cultured butter gently churned in a barratte is very hard to find unless you know what to look for. Will travels to Normandy, and the Charentes-Poitou to visit the two oldest cooperative dairies still making butter the traditional way. After looking at why they are so different in taste and texture he meets Yves Bourdier at La Maison du Buerre in Brittany and discovers the secrets behind the art of the Malaxer. Then an old friend offers to show him how easy it is to make delicious fresh cultured butter at home using crème fraîche.