The rugged plateau of Massif Central and Auvergne is famous for its rich green pastures and its six benchmark AOC French cheeses. Three semi-hard varieties date back to the 12th century and Will explores the differences between them while visiting a disused railway tunnel, where more than 3000 cheeses are now matured. Then it’s off to a cow fair, where the locals celebrate the annual transhumance (seasonal livestock migration), the village of St Nectaire and a troglodyte dwelling where cheese is still matured on rye straw mats.