May 15 was the 41st anniversary of the reversion of Japan's southern islands of Okinawa from postwar US rule. For Misako Koja, a renowned singer of Okinawan folk songs, it was a day that brought mixedáemotions. Koja was born and raised in Okinawa, near the Kadena US air force base. Her father died in a car accident on base when she was 3 years old. Her mother then raised her alone, working at a guesthouse for US servicemen. Koja, now 59 years, still lives nearby. Her favorite pastime is playing with her seven grandchildren at a nearby beach. Okinawa has an abundance of beautiful beaches. But it also has a multitude of US military facilities. Such bases have been a part of Koja's entire life, but she hopes they will be gone by the time her grandchildren reach adulthood. SOUTH KOREAN WOMEN LOOK TOWARD CHANGE, STARTING AT THE TOP