South of the capital and close to the Dead Sea, Sophie Grigson and Hanan Samara head to the famous baptism site where John the Baptist was said to have baptised Jesus Christ in the River Jordan. Later they climb Mount Nebo and from there head to Madaba, a nearby town best known for its Umayyad mosaics. But all that history and food tasting is tiring so Sophie and Hanan retire to a vineyard owned by wine expert, Omar Zumot.