"I rushed into the wonders of these immortal works; but it is totally impossible to describe the feelings of awe excited in the mind upon first beholding these stupendous excavations". John Seely , a young army officer travelled across western India in 1810 to visit the rock-cut temples of Ellora. The 300-mile trek on horseback from Bombay was often dangerous - wild animals, cholera, disabling heat and bandit tribes all posed a threat - but what he found more than made up for the rigours of his journey. David Drew follows in Seely's footsteps to rediscover Ellora's remarkable range of 34 cave temples hacked out of a mountainside - one of the most spectacular ancient sites in the East.